Dewalt DXPWH3040 Hot Water Pressure Washer 3000 PSI @ 4.0 GPM Belt Drive

Add up the running watts of everything you want to power at the same time, then add the highest starting watts of the single biggest motor (fridge, well pump, AC unit). That total is your minimum.

As a rough guide:

• 3,000–5,000W: fridge, lights, phone charging, a few small appliances
• 6,000–8,000W: the above plus a sump pump, furnace fan or window AC
• 9,000W and up: most of a home's essentials, a central AC on some models, or job-site tools

Leave some headroom — running a generator flat out all the time is hard on it and burns more fuel.

Gas models are the simplest and usually the cheapest. Dual fuel runs on gasoline or propane; propane stores for years without going stale, which matters if the generator sits waiting for an outage. Tri-fuel adds natural gas, so you can run from a home gas line indefinitely.

Output is a little lower on propane and natural gas than on gasoline — the spec sheet lists both figures.

Outdoors only, and well away from the house. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which you can't see or smell and which kills. Never run one in a garage, basement, shed or porch — even with doors open.

Place it at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointing away from doors, windows and vents, and fit battery CO alarms inside. Many models in our range have a CO-sensing shutoff, but it's a backup, not a substitute for placement.

Through a transfer switch or interlock kit installed by a licensed electrician, or by running heavy-duty extension cords to individual appliances.

Never plug a generator into a wall outlet ("backfeeding"). It can electrocute utility workers on the line and start a fire in your home's wiring.

Generators ship without fuel, and many ship without oil in the engine. Check the manual, add the specified oil before the first start, then fuel it outdoors with the engine cold.

Run it for a short break-in period under light load as the manual describes, and do the first oil change early — it's usually due after the first few hours.

Stale gasoline is the number one reason a generator won't start when you need it. Either add fuel stabiliser and run the engine a few minutes to get it into the carburettor, or run the tank and carburettor dry before storage.

Start it and run it under some load every month or two so you know it works before the next storm, not during it.

Standby generators are sized in kilowatts (kW). Smaller units cover essential circuits — fridge, lights, furnace, sump pump, well pump. Whole-house coverage including central air typically needs a larger unit, often 20 kW and up depending on the home.

An electrician will do a load calculation for your home, and that's the number to trust. Send us their figure and we'll match a model.

No. A standby generator connects to your home's electrical panel and to a natural gas or propane supply, so installation needs a licensed electrician and usually a licensed gas fitter, plus permits and inspection in most areas.

Getting this done properly also protects the manufacturer's warranty, which often requires professional installation.

Natural gas from your utility line, or propane from a tank. Natural gas never runs out; propane needs a tank large enough to cover the outages you expect, and a supplier to refill it.

The gas meter or line may need upgrading to supply the generator and your existing appliances at the same time — your installer will check.

Outside, on a level pad, with the clearances from windows, doors, vents and the house wall that the manufacturer and your local code require. Those distances vary by model and area, so your installer will site it.

Leave room around it for service access.

An automatic transfer switch senses when grid power drops, starts the generator and switches your circuits over, usually within seconds. When power returns it switches back and shuts the generator down.

Most units run a short self-test on a schedule, often weekly, so you know they'll start when needed.

Oil and filter changes, spark plugs and air filter on the intervals in the manual — typically once a year or after a set number of running hours, sooner after a long outage. Many owners have a dealer or electrician do an annual service.

An inverter generator has a gas or propane engine and produces clean, stable power that's safe for laptops and electronics. A portable power station is a large battery with built-in outlets — no engine, no fuel, no fumes.

Generators keep going as long as you have fuel. Power stations are silent and safe indoors, but run until the battery is empty and then need recharging.

Capacity is listed in watt-hours (Wh). For a rough runtime, multiply the capacity by about 0.85 to allow for conversion losses, then divide by the watts your devices draw.

Example: a 4,600 Wh unit powering a 150 W fridge on average gives roughly 4,600 × 0.85 ÷ 150 ≈ 26 hours. Check each unit's maximum output too — that decides what it can start, not just how long it lasts.

Yes. Battery power stations produce no exhaust, so they're safe to run inside. Inverter generators are not — any engine-driven generator must run outdoors, well away from the house, because of carbon monoxide.

From a wall outlet, a car's 12V socket, a gas generator, or solar panels, depending on the model. Wall charging is fastest. Solar input depends on panel wattage and sunlight, so check the maximum solar input on the spec sheet before buying panels.

Larger units with 240V output can connect to a home through a transfer switch or the manufacturer's home panel kit, installed by an electrician. They'll cover essential circuits for hours or days depending on load and capacity, but not heavy loads like central air indefinitely.

For long outages, pairing a power station with solar or a generator extends runtime.

Store it somewhere cool and dry, and keep it partly charged rather than completely empty or always at 100% — the manual gives the ideal storage level. Top it up every few months so it's ready when you need it.

PSI is pressure; GPM is how much water flows. Multiply them for cleaning units (CU) — the higher the CU, the faster you clean. As a guide:

• Up to 2,800 PSI: cars, patio furniture, small decks
• 3,000–3,300 PSI: driveways, siding, fences, larger decks
• 3,500–4,200 PSI: heavy-duty and professional work, stripping, big concrete areas

More pressure isn't always better — high PSI can gouge wood and strip paint if you're not careful.

Most washers come with colour-coded tips. Wider angles are gentler:

• Red (0°): a pinpoint jet for stubborn spots on hard surfaces — never use it on wood, cars or people
• Yellow (15°): stripping and heavy concrete cleaning
• Green (25°): general cleaning — decks, driveways, siding
• White (40°): gentle rinsing — cars, windows, outdoor furniture
• Black: low-pressure tip for applying soap

Direct drive pumps are connected straight to the engine — lighter, more compact and cheaper, fine for homeowners. Belt drive pumps run slower and cooler, so they last longer under hours of daily use, which is why contractors prefer them.

Triplex and CAT pumps are the professional-grade end of the range and are designed to be rebuilt rather than replaced.

Pressure washers ship without fuel and often without oil in the engine. Check the manual, add the specified engine oil (and pump oil, if your model needs it), connect the hose and wand, and turn the water on fully before starting the engine.

Never run the pump without water flowing through it — it overheats in seconds.

Water left in the pump freezes and cracks it. Before freezing weather, run a pump saver or pump antifreeze through it, drain the hoses and wand, and store it somewhere above freezing if you can.

Treat the fuel the same way you would for a generator: stabilise it or run the engine dry.

Treat the spray like a tool, not a hose. It can cut skin and inject water under it, so never point it at people or animals. Wear safety glasses and closed shoes, keep the trigger lock on when you put the wand down, and run gas models outdoors only.